Georgians say Svaneti is an intimidating place. Isolated in the Caucasus mountains, for hundreds of years back to the classical era of the Colchis, the Svan culture is the primal, untouched heart of Georgian culture. In the capital of Tbilisi and throughout the country, Georgian culture has been affected by and adapted to the comings and goings of people and empire. In Svaneti, "it is the culture we used to be." And maybe that is a little intimidating.